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Nov 02, 2016danielestes rated this title 4.5 out of 5 stars
Let me first say that you don't need an inkling of interest in or knowledge of surfing to love this book. Bill Finnegan covers the basics for all the novices out there. For example, there's a terrific little aside early on where he explains the physics of how waves are created. It's short and sweet and then it's back to the story. Anything more advanced, such as the various techniques used and what they're called, is filtered through the context of the author's life and is easily relatable. The language of growing up is a commonality we all share. I wonder at what point in his storied, seize-the-day life Bill Finnegan realized that surfing would always be a part of it. We all have interests that come and go, but for him it's clearly more than a hobby. Though to call it an obsession wouldn't be quite accurate either. It's more like surfing is his extended family of one—a love he will care for until he can no longer do so. Things noticeably slow down in the middle chapters, probably because he's somewhat settled and is no longer globe-trotting, but I still recommend hanging in there through to the end. Seeing the author reflect back on a life well lived while guided by the wisdom of his twilight years makes the whole effort worth it.